Milan —

You can usually tell that it’s a Giorgio Armani show. Not least because of the refined designs, but because the models are most often smiling. That wasn’t the case on Sunday night, when the Italian luxury label presented its Spring-Summer 2026 collection — the last by the “maestro” of fashion himself before his passing earlier this month.

Models walking the runway — staged at the Pinacoteca di Brera museum — had solemn expressions on their faces. Instead of walking individually, several moved in pairs or small groups. They wore floor-skimming gowns and smart jackets that looked made for the red carpet where Armani’s brand has thrived. There were also more relaxed but sophisticated looks, such as the tunics and coats with mandarin collars. A live pianist performed, and there was a courtyard full of lit paper lanterns, creating a mood more solemn than any Armani show in recent history.

Giorgio Armani's niece Silvana Armani and historic collaborator Leo Dell'Orco greet the audience at the end of the show. Stefano Rellandini/AFP/Getty Images

Models walked the runway in pairs, or small groups. The clothes came in a palette of navy, dark green and purple. Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images

Armani's friends and supporters, including Glenn Close and Lauren Hutton, were among those in attendance. Jacopo Raule/Getty Images

Among those in attendance were Hollywood stars and longtime friends of Armani, including actors Cate Blanchett, Richard Gere, Glenn Close, Lauren Hutton, Samuel L. Jackson, the filmmaker Spike Lee, and designers Paul Smith and Dries Van Noten. All dressed accordingly in black tie, and following the show were invited to explore the museum, where more than 120 of