A couple of years ago, Pokémon introduced a new monster: Poltchageist, a “Grass/Ghost type” with special abilities in “hospitality” and being “heatproof.” It is wily and homicidal; it is also matcha.
Sure—why not? Matcha, a special preparation of green tea, is already everywhere else. It’s in candy and restaurant desserts and ultra-firming eye cream and Frappuccinos and a pretty foul-sounding martini. Loacker, the 100-year-old Italian company that makes those Quadratini cookies, has introduced a matcha flavor. Dunkin’ sells a matcha doughnut. Thousands or possibly millions of young people on TikTok seem to have devoted their life to decanting green sludge from one vessel to another. Retail sales of matcha powder in the United States are up by 86 percent from three years ago. Matcha is outselling coffee at some cafés, including my local Blank Street, which isn’t really a coffeeshop at all anymore—earlier this year, the company drenched its interiors in celadon, dropped the word coffee from its name, and began offering an ever-expanding menu of matcha drinks in baroque, hybridized flavors, such as carrot cake and “daydream.”
In 2023, the global matcha market was estimated to be $4.3 billion. That number is expected to nearly double by the end of the decade.
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