Restaurants were once reliant on the likes of Uber Eats or Deliveroo to survive. Now they're among the factors making brick-and-mortar restaurants less viable. Photograph: Dara Mac Dónaill

Call the social scientists. I propose a new method for tracking the social health of society and it’s called The Takeaway Index. It suggests that the moral status of the nation is tightly correlated with the amount of time we spend ordering food via apps on our smartphones. I think it stands up against accepted scientific methods.

This is, conveniently, rather good news for me. I have ordered just one takeaway in 2025. It was Monday, June 30th. I had returned from Glastonbury after a seven-hour trip home, husk-like, to an empty fridge.

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