One sun-filled afternoon in August, I set out by boat around the Seven Hogs – na Seacht gCeanna – off the Maharees on the northern side of the Dingle peninsula in Kerry. The clutch of small islands, uninhabited by humans for more than half a century, rises up from the Atlantic Ocean like little dumplings, each of varying shape and size, from the largest, Oileán tSeanaigh (St Seanach’s Island) to the smallest, Oileán Imill (island on the edge). Scattered between are the others: Gorach (the bird hatchery island), Oileán Bó (cow’s island), Oileán Traolaigh (Terence’s island), Inis Tuaisceart (north island) and An Mhuclach Bheag (small piggery island).
Overlooked by the sandstone Slieve Mish mountain range on the mainland, we weaved our way through the rocky
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