It has been another tough year for restaurants. The closure of Dylan McGrath’s trio, followed by Big Mike’s, underlines how hard it is for independents to hold their ground while big operators and investment funds circle and move in.

The good news is that plenty of independents remain, and that’s our focus with this winter list.

We’re celebrating the stalwarts who’ve been doing it right for years alongside the new entrants reshaping the dining scene. The list spans casual and buzzy spots, special-occasion rooms, and high-end restaurants that don’t trap you in a tasting menu. Some destinations may raise an eyebrow on price, but set against a weekend abroad, they more than hold their own.

Of course, there are more than 100 amazing restaurants in Ireland. These are the ones run with an ethos worth backing – chefs who source quality Irish produce, who lead with integrity and imagination, and who prove that good food and social conscience can go hand in hand. They are the restaurants that remind us why, even in a difficult year, Ireland is still one of the most exciting places to eat. In solidarity with the indies, Corinna, Joanne and Ali.

New openings

Amai by Viktor

4 Harry Street, Dublin 2; 083-1357050, amaibyviktor.ie

Amai by Viktor. Photograph: Alan Betson

Brazilian chef Viktor Silva brings serious ambition to Harry Street with a €79 tasting menu that feels both creative and generous. The room is elegant – parquet floors, marble bar, high sash windows – and the cooking has flair. Goat’s cheese with okra, strawberry and a clear watermelon consommé is the star on a menu that threads Brazilian ideas throughout, from moqueca-style monkfish to foie gras with coffee. Amai is bold, stylish and one of Dublin’s most exciting new restaurants. Read our review here. Corinna Hardgrave

Bakeology In

58-59 Meath Street, Dublin 8; 086-3873074, instagram.com/bakeology_in

Benjamin Pugliese and Florencia Matán of Bakeology. Photograph: Alan Betson

When Argentinian Florencia Matan opened the original Bakeology, it quickly became known for its delicious alfajores filled with dulce de leche and savoury empanadas. Now there’s a second location right across the street, the bright and cheerful brunch-focused Bakeology In. Try the signature Wild Green medialuna, a croissant-like pastry filled with spinach cream, goat’s cheese, honey and walnuts, or the Tango Scramble with avocado sauce and sriracha mayo. Joanne Cronin

Beau

Unit 2, Warehouse Lane, Waring Street, Belfast BT1 2DX; +44 28 90990330, beau.restaurant

Beau in Belfast. Photograph: Instagram

Located in a formerly vacant warehouse tucked away in the Cathedral Quarter, Lottie Noren’s all-day menu of European small plates has been the recent talk of Belfast. This young chef adeptly combines her experience from across the UK and her time competing for the North on BBC’s Great British Menu. Share plates of beef tartare with beef fat focaccia, lamb rib with hung yoghurt or pressed potato with guanciale cream in a warm and comfortable setting. JC

Borgo

The Old Bank, 162–165 Phibsborough Road, Dublin 7; 01-5477478, borgodublin.ie

Chef Pontus Nordgren at Borgo, Phibsborough. Photograph: Chris Maddaloni

The dream team of Sean Crescenzi and Jamie McCarthy have brought a true taste of Italy to Phibsborough, with a menu running from spuntini and pizzette to house-made pasta and wood-fired mains. If Borgo served nothing but its gambas – prawns seared in lemon, garlic and chilli butter – it would still be worth the trip. It’s that rare restaurant that feels equally right for a quick bite or a long night. Read our review here. CH

Capparelli at the Mill

231 Belfast Road, Belfast BT16 1UE; +44 28 9013 3395, capparelli.co.uk

Capparelli at the Mill: Proprietor and chef Carlos Capparelli. Photograph: Stephen Davison

Lucie and Carlos Capparelli have transformed a restored mill, 20 minutes outside Belfast, into a striking diningroom of glass and wild-flower views. Brazilian-born Carlos spent nine years cooking with Yotam Ottolenghi, who is also a backer of their business. The Italian-influenced menu includes small plates, pasta, mains and rotisserie. Aubergine with goat’s milk yoghurt, beef ragù, and aubergine pasta all impress, and the rotisserie chicken is spectacular. Read our review here. CH

Chubbys

Rear of 46 Clontarf Road, Clontarf, Dublin 3, chubbyskitchen.ie

Barry Stephens, Chubbys owner and chef. Photograph: Dara Mac Dónaill

Slow-cooked and smoked meats take centre stage at Chubbys, no surprise to fans of chef Barry Stephen’s former 147 Deli and Just Chubbys tacos. The former taco truck’s warehouse is now a snazzy sit-down spot worthy of its big, bold menu, with dishes such as 10-hour smoked short ribs, birria tacos and fried chicken that turn heads as they leave the kitchen. Good beer, wines and zingy cocktails round it all out. Ali Dunworth

Comet

3 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2; 01-4443355, cometrestaurant.com

Kevin O’Donnell and Laura Chabal of Comet. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw

The quail at Comet tells you everything – deboned, stuffed, lacquered, dripping into milk bread, finished with a vin jaune sauce. Kevin O’Donnell’s cooking is exact, confident, quietly brilliant, with Laura Chabal shaping the wine list and the welcome. This is precision cooking with real personality, backed by Bastible’s Barry and Claremarie FitzGerald, two of the most experienced people in the business. Dublin has a serious new contender. Read our review here. CH

[ Three Dublin restaurants added to Michelin GuideOpens in new window ]

Fawn

Main Street, Oranmore, Co Galway; 083-1526600, fawn.ie

Head chef and owner Jason O'Neill at Fawn, Oranmore. Photograph: Joe O'Shaughnessy

A combination of restaurant and wine bar, Fawn is the love child of four friends –Hungarians Ervin Vamoser and Maria Ogl, and Irish chefs Jason O’Neill and Sarah Croffey. The quartet bring experience from Michelin three-star dining and a love of cooking over open fire, using the best of local produce. The extensive wine list, with its focus on wine from eastern Europe, grower champagne and French classics, is truly a delight. JC

La Strada

3 Aungier Street, Dublin 2; 089-4695983, instagram.com/lastradad2/

La Strada, Aungier Street, Dublin 2. Photograph: Alan Betson

Manifesto may be gone, but its crew return with La Strada in a room that is styled as a Neapolitan backstreet, full of chatter. Just 15 pizzas and wine on tap keep it sharp. Quattro formaggi is indulgent but balanced, Puttanesca deluxe brings a real anchovy bite, and the Peppa Pig pushes potato, smoked mozzarella and porchetta right to the edge of excess. Read our review here. CH

[ Restaurant review: Wine on tap and 15 pizzas on the menu at this Naples style Dublin spotOpens in new window ]

Lucy

6 Clanbrassil Street Upper, Dublin 8; 085-2013197, instagram.com/lucy.dublin.ie

Ukrainian restaurant Lucy in Dublin

Ukrainian baker Mykola Kuleshov has slowly bought Ukrainian food to the heart of Dublin. Starting out with a coffee shop, he introduced us to delicious honey and waffle cakes made using recipes from his grandmother Lucy. Daytime dining came next with a menu of borscht, varenyky dumplings, and deruny potato pancakes served with bacon, sour cream and mushrooms. Now open for weekend evenings; make sure to try the chicken Kyiv. JC

Priory Market

Tallaght Enterprise Centre, Main Road, Dublin 24; priorymarket.ie

Femi Abonde, founder of Bless Up at the Priory Market in Tallaght. Photograph: Alan Betson

Opened in June, Priory Market gives migrant-led and small food businesses a foothold – no rent, no fit-out costs – just 15 per cent of turnover in exchange for a unit, utilities and steady footfall. It’s a mix of serious talent under one roof: Delhi2Dublin’s Indian, Bless Up’s Afro-Caribbean, Flavouritos’ Venezuelan, Seoul Kitchen’s Korean, Zaira’s Lebanese-Brazilian, Park 27’s Asian street food, Buongusto’s pasta, Mam