Bread, that inseparable companion of every Spanish meal, is disappearing from our tables at an alarming rate.

The figures are stark. In the early 1960s, each Spaniard consumed 134 kilograms of bread a year; today that amount has plummeted to 28 kilograms a year, a drop of 80% that reflects much more than a simple change in diet.

The transformation is, above all, generational and cultural.

As José María Fernández, secretary general of the Spanish Confederation of Bakeries, explains, there is a radically different approach between young

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