US president Donald Trump walks with South Korean president Lee Jae Myung during a high-honour presentation ceremony, where Trump was presented with a replica of a crown worn by the kings of Silla, at the Gyeongju National Museum in Gyeongju, South Korea. Photograph: Andrew Caballero-Reynolds/AFP via Getty Images)

When South Korea’s president Lee Jae Myung welcomed Donald Trump in Gyeongju on Wednesday, he gave him an enormous gold crown – a replica of the broadest and tallest of those worn by kings of the Silla dynasty. The dynasty ruled the Korean peninsula for almost a thousand years, from 57 BC to 935 AD, and the grassy mounds Trump could see from the centre of the ancient capital are royal tombs.

Silla was the smallest of Korea’s three

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