Durian, a divisive fruit often derided in the West for its potent, onion-like flavor and creamy texture, has long been a popular treat in Southeast Asia. Only in recent years has it emerged as a gastronomic sensation in China, which now consumes more than 1.5 million metric tons of the fruit every year, with shoppers shelling out around $25 for a single large durian. Almost all of that is shipped in from China’s Southeast Asian neighbors.

The fruit’s scent announces its presence long before it comes into view. The aroma snakes down the lorongs, past the coffee houses and xian bing stalls of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, ending at the gloved hand of the local fruit seller, who deftly slices off the barbed shell of a durian. A dozen or so Chinese tourists line up to try the football-sized fruit, presented in cellophane packages or blended into soft-serve ice cream and puff pastries.

The fruit’s scent announces its presence long before it comes into view. The aroma snakes down the lorongs, past the coffee houses and xian bing stalls of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, ending at the gloved hand of the local fruit seller, who deftly slices off the barbed shell of a durian. A dozen or so Chinese tourists line up to try the football-sized fruit, presented in cellophane packages or blended into soft-serve ice cream and puff pastries.

Durian, a divisive fruit often derided in the West for its potent, onion-like flavor and creamy texture, has long been a popular treat in Southeast Asia.