John Coffey, head chef and owner of Thyme in Athlone, where Mickael Viljanen of Chapter One likes to go for Sunday lunch. All photographs: Alan Betson

Thyme      Address : Custume Place, Athlone, Co Westmeath Telephone : 090 647 8850 Cuisine : Modern International Website : https://thymerestaurant.ie/ Opens in new window Cost : €€€

In a recent Michelin Guide newsletter, the restaurant gods finally spelt out what a Bib Gourmand actually is – overdue clarity now that the old price cap has vanished into fog. And no, it’s not a halfway house to a star, despite the mythology that sprang up after Bastible in Dublin went from Bib to one star in 2022.

A Bib isn’t a style. It’s a hunch: inspectors walk in, eat unusually well for what they deem a fair price, and decide someone deserves credit for not fleecing the public.

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