Have you heard about zebra striping? It’s sober-curious lingo for alternating alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks, and something more and more of us (including myself) are investigating, as moderation becomes a growing buzzword when it comes to drinking. As a nation we’re drinking less than ever before. Alcohol consumption by adults in the Republic fell by 4.5 per cent in 2024, continuing a steady decline seen over the past 25 years.

It’s a shift that has sparked a gorgeous boom in quality low- and no-alcohol (NA) drinks, and, perhaps surprisingly, pubs have been leading the charge. A large driver here is Guinness 0.0, a pint so close to the original, it has convinced even the most cynical fans to swap when needed.

NA beers such as this do a great job of making you feel that if you’re not drinking, you’re still part of the action. It means more bums on seats and maybe an extra round. Perfect for the pubs, but when it comes to restaurants, it’s not as straightforward, particularly in fine dining, where wine has always been an important component of a restaurant’s experience and revenue. Swapping our favourite vintages for NA versions is not the same. Alcohol-free wines often disappoint because they’re made by removing alcohol from regular wine, which dulls the delicate aromas we love. It doesn’t make sense to strip good wine of its character, so the wines chosen for de-alcoholisation tend to be the cheaper, commercial ones that don’t really belong in fine dining. There are a few exceptions, such as Hollow Leg, an Irish brand from Winelab and Spanish winemaker Pabl

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