With the increased coarsening of everyday life, it probably doesn’t help to heap more toxicity, and no little division, on an already overburdened environment. I apologise in advance; what follows ain’t going to help.

The fifth quarter, offal, variety, organ and inside meat. Fierce words that would make one demographic go weak at the knees, and another gag uncontrollably.

For the fully signed-up offal enthusiasts (yes, you at the back) inside meat offers a more diverse, unique, nutritious and tasty way to eat. It’s not only an act of resistance to the sometimes banal and unscrupulous ways food is laid out before us but also a clarion call to rescue an eating experience like no other from widespread public opprobrium.

The alarming disconnect between identifying what we eat and where it comes from is perfectly encapsulated in our relationship with the inner and outer organs of an animal.

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