Dinner ended in a fridge. Underground, off Londonโ€™s Portobello Road, surrounded by bubbling jars; koji blooming like suede; wonky vegetables caught mid-pickling. Ten minutes earlier Iโ€™d finished a chocolate-tahini crรฉmeux in the restaurant upstairs, alongside (full disclosure) my second or third martini. Now the man behind the โ€œhow-is-this-vegan?โ€ magic, Holy Carrot chef Daniel Watkins, was showing me the secret โ€“ a laboratory of pickles and ferments.

My dining experience came through Mastercardโ€™s priceless.com, in collaboration with the restaurant booking platform TheFork. Its culinary offering is split into two flavours: Priceless Experiences get you closer to the craft (here, the post-dessert walk through Holy Carrotโ€™s fermentation โ€œlibraryโ€ with the chef-owner), while Hotspots lands you tables that are usually snapped up in the time it takes to type your card number into the booking system.

I used both options in the same week: the backstage access at Holy Carrot; the priority booking for Birminghamโ€™s experimental restaurant Albatross Death Cult. Two very different doors, in very different cities, and one simple idea โ€“ that the right kind of access can change how you

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