A generous ham on the table makes my Christmas every year. Whether you prefer green or smoked, free-range or organic, the humble ham is a cornerstone of the festive feast. If you can, go as large as possible, because bigger joints roll and tie more easily, and have a more even layer of fat that results in a better, more generous ham. And, of course, those Boxing Day leftovers are pure joy.
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A good layer of fat matters, because it adds flavour and, when glazed, a delicious, gelatinous crust – in fact, that’s my favourite bit. Smooth, tender, brine-cured hams are perfect for cold cuts sliced like classic supermarket-style ham. Coarser, organic, nitrite- and nitrate-free joints are ideal for slow roasting, which gives them a much deeper, richer flavour.
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