Six of the best autumn city breaks in Europe for an overload of culture and fabulous food

Athens

Craggy coves and sandy bays make up the resplendent mix that is the Athens Riviera. So it was that at the end of an autumn day I found myself with a not unpleasant question: where to head to soothe bones still aching for a last splash of summer sun. For Athens offers something that other European cities cannot: a coastline of more than 40 miles dotted with beaches many a Greek island would covet.

Out of season, the shores of Attica still have a magnetic allure, as I discovered when swimming into a fading sun across the bay of Vouliagmeni. For those seeking rejuvenation in marine blue waters primed to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the Riviera’s public or private beaches does not disappoint.

With sea salt still clinging to my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a tavern whose Mediterranean fare is as good as the spectacular view of the bay it sits on. In a nod to times past, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

View image in fullscreen Vouliagmeni beach, south of Athens. Photograph: Geopix/Alamy

Athens is as celebrated for its hills as its coastline: natural elevations within view of the Acropolis that make it a treasure trove for amblers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to escape a metropolis that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these rocky outcrops – bearers of fabulous names such as the Hill of the Nymphs and the Hill of the Muses – are a must.

In my view, this ancient capital is Europe’s most soulful and sublime

In my view, this ancient capital is also Europe’s most soulful and sublime. If you reach the top of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s highest point, either by foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a spectacular vista of the entire Argo-Saronic Gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to stay centrally, the ancient Plaka district remains the best base. The old-school Adrian hotel has doubles looking on to the northern face of the Acropolis from about £120 B&B. In the same area, Zorbas is a favourite restaurant with locals and serves the most succulent lamb chops. With views of the Acropolis, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are wonderfully atmospheric and perfect for warm autumn evenings – for a real treat head to Kuzina or the Michelin‑starred Macris.

Helena Smith

Palermo

View image in fullscreen A 16th-century sculpture at the fountain of Piazza Pretoria. Photograph: Paul Williams/Alamy

Think Neapolitan margherita is the last word in pizza? Think again. In Palermo they prefer sfincione, a soft, well-risen rectangle of dough topped with intense, onion-heavy tomato sauce and sprinkled with caciocavallo cheese and oregano. Savoury, filling and comforting, it’s sold in bakeries, kiosks and carts all over the city (Via Maqueda in the histor