If Milan Fashion Week revealed designers retreating towards reassurance – softer silhouettes, familiar codes, clothes as comfort – Paris offered a different reading of the moment. Here, the collections suggested a quiet optimism: fashion as curiosity, invention and renewed pleasure.

Long burdened by its status as fashion’s spiritual capital – a city where seriousness and severity often reign – Paris loosened its grip this men’s week.

Across the runways, there was a sense of play and possibility. From Louis Vuitton’s architectural pragmatism to Dior’s poetic excess, Louboutin’s provocation and Amiri’s romanticised Am

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