The finest meal I ever had in Britain cost me Β£11 (€12.50). I thought wistfully of it at the weekend when news emerged of the huge fire that tore through a fine old Victorian block in Glasgow beside the city’s central railway station. The blaze torched my favourite chip shop.

It was late one night in February 2024 when my train from London pulled into Glasgow Central. I had a flight booked early the following morning to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis. There were just two things left to do that night: eat and sleep.

Glasgow was cold and I was tired. I weighed my options: I could beat the streets in search of a nutritious meal or I could just hit the neon-lit Blue Lagoon chip shop outside the station

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